Turkey has revealed itself as this year’s ‘must visit’ destination. It’s this year’s Croatia, just as Croatia was last year’s Iceland…and on and on. While exploring the Grand Bazaar, touring the Haghia Sophia, sipping thick dark coffee on the banks of the Bosphorus, and steaming away your worries in a traditionalhamam should not be left off any traveler’s list, we’ve discovered a more perfect form of relaxation. Anywhere from two to ten days, limitless sunshine, perfect water, charming villages and remote locations: a cruise on a Turkish Gulet.
A Gulet. Goo-lette. A wide-beamed wooden sailing vessel with multiple cabins, a saloon, and – most importantly – at least one gracious outdoor lounging area. Forget Greek ferries and bareboating (both have their undeniable, romantic charms); this is the most pleasant, some might say indulgent, way to sail the Aegean Sea.
Bored on boats? Problem with seasickness? Never fear! Being afloat on a Gulet is the ultimate way to unwind, and you still see a new place or two every day. You spend most of your time outside on deck or in the water. Gulets are very stable vessels, sea-sickness is unusual.
Unpack once and you are home . You can swim, kayak and water-ski or go ashore and hike. It will be time for dinner before you know it. The food is Mediterranean and fresh. You’ll specify at the beginning of the trip what you enjoy eating, and in what quantities, and then you let the crew do the rest. And the crew – we have found them to be uniformly friendly and helpful.
Here is what you need to know:
Source for your charter?
Missy Johnston at: [email protected]
Missy is based in Newport, Rhode Island and she knows the available Gulet fleet, first hand.
Where to cruise?
Choose how much “civilization” you desire. Ask your captain to avoid ports which accommodate cruise ships. The famous “Blue Route” across the southwest coast of Turkey is ideal.
When to cruise the Aegean?
June and September are uncrowded and temperate.
Click here for seasonal temperatures in Bodrum, Turkey and Rhodes, Greece.
What to pack?
ASE packing list for a boat charter.
Plus:
- Clean shoes or slippers with non-skid, non marking soles such as Top-siders. You should not wear your ‘land shoes’ on the Gulet
- It is hot in the sun and cool in the breeze. It might be 90 degrees at noon and 65 after dinner. Lightweight long sleeved white shirts help keep off the sun.
- A wide brimmed hat that won’t blow off.
- Polarized sunglasses – an optometrist can put polarized lenses in fashion frames if the Maui Jim look is not for you.
- GoPro to record your adventure.
Choosing a Gulet – things to think about:
Outside spaces – this is where you will spend most of your time;
Seating areas
You’ll want a table that accommodates your family and friends for every meal. Seats should be comfortable and have a view. You want space open to breezes most of the time, with the option of shielding you from the wind in at least one direction.
Shade
The Aegean sun is potent and we all know that ‘less is more’ when it comes to sunburn. We choose Gulets which can rig ‘biminis’ – open-sided sailcloth awnings – over the main seating area and some of the contoured mattresses up forward.
Small children
Look for rails and spaces to keep young children safe. Check ahead for appropriate life jackets. You will still have to be vigilant.
Living on board
Language
Assuming that you are not fluent in Turkish or Greek, make sure that someone on the boat speaks your language – on our Gulet cruises, at least one crew member has spoken English.
The crew
The crews are genuinely friendly and have treated us as welcome guests. They cheerfully produce everything we want without the stilted formality.
The Food
We love the Greek, Turkish, Mediterranean meals with Greek salad, hummus and fresh yogurt. Most Gulet cooks can produce a range of food from around the world. Before you travel, you will fill out a questionnaire about what you like to eat and drink. We always say: Fresh food, lots of fruits, vegetables. We like yogurt, fresh fruit and cereal with honey for breakfast – with the option of eggs when we are in the mood. Fresh fish and chicken, little fried food… you know what you like. We have never been disappointed. Don’t hold back on your requests. We love the local tomatoes, apricots, nuts and cherries and ask the crew to load up on them. The cheese is good and there are many varieties. If you want cookies in the afternoon – let them know. We ask for a little something sweet after dinner.
Drink
We like the Greek and Turkish wines – the whites and roses are light and drinkable. Efes beer is good. You can request any drinks you choose, but imported wine and alcohol will be more expensive than the local offerings.
Stay hydrated. We asked for bottled water. We like Perrier with fresh lime, Diet Coke, and herbal iced teas – especially mint and green tea.
Formality
You set the tone. We live outside in bathing suits and sarongs. Shoes or only for hikes and runs. We ‘clean up’ for dinner. I mean showers, clean shirts and a little ‘faux bling’ for the ladies.
Air-conditioning
You may not always use it, but it is nice to have the option on hot nights.
Quiet
A virtue of sailboats is peace and quiet. Ask if the generator is quiet.
Security
The staterooms do not have safes. We lock our wallets and passports in a suitcase. The crew members are professionals. I have checked with Missy and she is not aware of any problem with items going ‘missing’ on Gulets.
Motion under way
Individual Gulets are designed for different priorities between pure comfort and serious sailing. Some are very steady with little rolling, but the rarely sail. They are stylish, comfortable platforms for exploring the Turkish Coast and Greek Islands.
Some Gulets
Last year we chartered two large Gulets with friends and family – the Queen of Karia and Carpe Diem II – twenty people in all – luxurious comfort. On our current cruise we are with our immediate family, six of us, on a slightly smaller Gulet – the Clarissa. Her owner is Danish and she is built to sail. Compared to conventional sailboats, she is a space machine.
Gulets typically sleep six to twelve friends in three to six cabins. Charters usually go out on Saturday and back on Friday.
Turkey or Greece?
We have chartered out of Bodrum in Turkey, and Rhodes in Greece. You can cruise the Aegean either way. Do you want to connect through Istanbul or Athens?
Communications?
Missy will know what is available on each Gulet. Our advice? You will probably have email and telephone connections for most of the cruise.
Northrup and Johnson have their own YouTube video channel if you want to check out many of the destinations!
Traveling with family? The New York Times Magazine article on cruising on a Gulet,“Three Generations on One Tiny Ship” is a good read.
Enjoy your adventures!
